Tackling the crux corner pitch on East Buttress, Beinn Eighe
Triple Buttress of Coire Mhic Fhearchair on Beinn Eighe
Located in Coire Mhic Fhearchair, The East Buttress of Beinn Eighe offers a magnificent day of climbing and scrambling. The first ascent was back in 1907 by Gibbs, Backhouse and Mounsey, and their description of it; “No better rock had been our fortune in all Scotland”, sums it up perfectly. The climb, location and atmosphere is so exquisite that it is considered, by many, to be one of the best mountaineering routes in Scotland. The route itself is located on the famous Triple Buttress, one of the most impressive cliffs in the UK. It follows a direct line up the east quartzite buttress. Whereby, 210 metres of climbing and scrambling at around grade 3 and Diff provides an unforgettable adventure.
View a complete guide to East Buttress on Beinn Eighe
We offer this climb on a private guided basis with a maximum ratio of 1:2. This ratio allows us to guide in a way that is not only as safe as possible but also allows the climbers to experience the route in its full splendour.
See our ratios and pricing information
Beinn Eighe is located in Glen Torridon, in the beautiful North West Highlands of Scotland. The route itself begins in the Beinn Eighe car park, located approximately 6 miles from Kinlochewe and 4 miles from Torridon village. Both of these small villages contain a campsite, a hotel and a small shop. For those looking for a larger village with a few more facilities then Gairloch is a great alternative. Gairloch is approximately 40 minutes drive from the Beinn Eighe car park and contains a wide range of B&Bs, hotels, shops, a pharmacy and a garage.
The East Buttress on Beinn Eighe is a classic mountaineering route. It starts with a stunning walk into the atmospheric Coire Mhic Fhearchair, from which we head to the famous Triple Buttress. The route starts via an exposed traverse above the sandstone tier. Over 200 metres of wonderful climbing and scrambling will bring us on to the Beinn Eighe Ridge before descending back to the car park. Please read below for a full route description:
Our day will begin from the Beinn Eighe Car Park. The car park is located along a stunning single track road, which attracts a variety of drivers and wildlife! So please do allow plenty of time for the journey.
We will leave the car park using an excellent path that takes us around western side of Beinn Eighe. This 7km path goes all the way to Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair, a beautiful walk in its own right. We will follow along the left hand edge of the loch until we gain the traverse path.
The traverse is a narrow ledge above the sandstone tier. While a head for heights is needed it is not overly technical and it is protectable using a rope. This will lead us to the start of the climb.
Approximately the first 80 metres of the route is the steepest and contains the majority of the Diff grade climbing. There are excellent holds throughout as you ascend over a series of ledges.
From here the character changes slightly into a more of a mountain scramble, with two distinct crux sections, rather than a continuous climb. We will scramble approximately 40 metres, over ledges and boulders, before we tackle the first crux. This first crux section is a corner of approximately 15 metres Diff grade climbing.
We will continue for another 40 metres of scrambling before we reach the second crux. Shorter in nature, a crack in the back of an awkward corner, will give us around 4 metres of more Diff grade climbing.
A further 20 metres of scrambling will lead us into a short walk to the top Coinneach Mhor. This plateau on the Beinn Eighe ridgeline marks the end of our route.
From here a short walk along the ridge allows us to then descend the south flank of Beinn Eighe. Rejoining our early path and walking back to the car park.
In order to provide the highest level of experience and safety we maintain low ratios for guided ascents. We will take a maximum of two people per guide on this route.
| Ratio | Price |
|---|---|
| 1:1 | £300 |
| 1:2 | £160 per person |
This route is approximately 200 metres of climbing and scrambling at around grade 3 and Diff. It is an excellent route for anyone who has experience of indoor or outdoor climbing, as well as belaying experience. Equally, this route is also great for the seasoned scrambler looking to advance into rock climbing. It has large, positive holds throughout and so can be enjoyed by most climbers or scramblers who have a good head for heights. If, as a scrambler, you have no prior experience of belaying please just let us know and we can build this into your day.
You will need normal hill walking kit including sturdy footwear, waterproofs (jacket and trousers), food and warm clothing. Large holds make this route possible in good boots or approach shoes. Technical kit such as harnesses and helmets are available to borrow for your booking where required. Alternatively, you are welcome to bring your own subject to inspection by your guide to ensure its safety. A complete kit list is provided with each booking.
